Crostata

Who says that tops on pies and tarts should be latticed?

To tell you the whole truth, this is actually the first time I've made crostata without the lattice top (how very rebellious of me), but this is not the first time that cut-outs have ever dethroned the woven-checkered-deal. If you take a look at some cookbooks or look online, you'll find that other people have done this sort of thing before ... which pretty much means that not only was I lazy, I was also not very original! Ha!

As my brother says, "Whatevs!" The point is that these crostate* looked coo-chi-coo adorable and they tasted right. I always think of Mamy (my husband's Mom) when we have crostata, because she was the one who introduced me to this Italian dessert, which is really nothing more than jam slathered over pâte sablée (a sweet, crisp crust reminiscent of shortbread) and baked. It doesn't sound very exciting, but it's terribly addictive.

Crostata has been a dessert in regular rotation at Mamy's home for decades. When I was still in university, I remember her bringing her apricot crostata to the table one weekend lunch, so casually, as if it were some generic dessert picked up at a corner store instead of the completely-homemade-all-from-scratch confection prepared that morning. She told me it was so easy (she isn't the complicated-cook type), and it actually is, but I had never made a tart before, and I remember being in total awe, thinking, "Wow. When I grow up, I'm going make crostate just like this."

I don't know why I never learned how to make Mamy's crostata crust, because as far as I can recall I've used other crust recipes that weren't hers. It's strange because she shares all her recipes with me, without holding secrets back - you know how some people, mothers-in-law included, do that? She doesn't ... in fact, there really isn't anything in-lawish about her, which is why I don't refer to her that way. Anyway, I've settled on Dorie Greenspan's crust recipe, which is comparable to Mamy's - firm enough to hold its shape, crisp and a bit crumbly, pleasantly sweet.

If you decide to try this, make it with the best-quality jam you can get your hands on - any jam you like will work, although I've most often seen it with apricot, tart cherry, or raspberry. If you happen to have homemade jam, all the better.

*crostata - singular; crostate - plural

Pâte Sablée / Crostata

Crust Adapted from Baking: From My Home to Yours 

(I also use this recipe for Frangipane Tarts)

In the bowl of a food processor, pulse 5-10 times to combine:

  7.5 ounces (1½) cups all purpose flour

  ½ cup confectioner's sugar

  ¼ tsp salt

With the food processor bowl uncovered, scatter over the flour mixture:

  ½ cup very cold unsalted butter, cut into ½" cubes

Pulse until the butter is cut in. This shouldn't take too many 1-second pulses. You are aiming for pea-sized, flour-coated bits of butter.

Once again with the food processor bowl uncovered, pour over the flour mixture:

  1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten

  1 Tbsp cream or water (optional - the original recipe doesn't include this, 

    but I find that it makes rolling easier)

Pulse again, this time with longer pulses (about 5 seconds each), until the dough starts to form clumps. Do not let the dough come together into a large ball - this will overwork the dough and will result in a tough crust.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured working surface. Set aside a small portion of dough (maybe a sixth or so). At this point, you have two options:

  1) Press the remaining dough into a 9" or 9½" fluted tart pan with a removable bottom, with a border that rises about half an inch high, then freeze for at least 30 minutes (I aim for 1 hour). 

  OR:

  2) Use your hands to very lightly gather all the pieces together into a ball. Wrap it with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour, or even overnight. After that rest period, roll out the dough, then lay it over a 9" or 9½" fluted tart pan with a removable bottom, with a border that rises about half an inch high. Freeze this rolled out crust for at least 30 minutes (I aim for 1 hour).

Either way (pressing the crust in the pan or rolling it out), you will likely end up with dough-trimmings. Use these, in addition to the small amount of dough that you had set aside, to adorn the top of your crostata: flatten (or roll) it out and cut out shapes. Lay the cutouts on a flat sheet, cover and refrigerate along with the crust.

Preheat the oven to 375ºF, with the rack on the lower third.

After the freezer rest time, dock the dough (poke it all over with a fork).

With a spoon or an offset spatula, spread over the crust to just a bit over ⅛" thick - don't make it too thick or else it will turn out to be terribly sweet:
  roughly ¾ cups jam of your choosing 
    (apricot, tart cherry, raspberry are some possibilities)

Carefully arrange your cutouts over the jam.

Bake the crostata at 375ºF for 35 minutes. The crust will brown, the cutouts will turn golden, and the jam will thicken. Serve barely warm or at room temperature. This is best served the day it's made, but it will still be good for a couple of days after (just a tiny bit less crisp).